A range hood, a bathroom fan, and a dryer each move air out of the house. The house has to get that air back from somewhere, and the path it chooses is not always the one you planned. In a single-family home, the usual paths are gaps around windows, the attic hatch, recessed lights, and under-cut doors. When those paths are generous and the exhausts are modest, nothing happens that you can feel. When the exhausts add up, the house goes negative relative to the outdoors, and the first appliance to pay for that is usually the one that burns gas and depends on its exhaust rising up the flue.
The ACHR News piece on multifamily properties frames the problem plainly. Its summary says that exhaust, make-up air, ventilation, and filtration all interact, and that "getting one wrong can affect the entire building." A single-family house is a much smaller system, but the chain is the same, and you own every part of it, so you can test it on a Saturday.
Add up the exhaust before you trust the house
Walk the house with a pencil and a notepad. Read the label or nameplate on each exhaust device: the range hood, each bath fan, the dryer, any kitchen or utility fan, and any whole-house or attic fan. Write down the rated CFM for each one and add them together. That total is the demand you are placing on the building. Then ask where the replacement air comes from. A dedicated make-up opening, a ducted intake, or nothing in particular. Most houses have nothing in particular, which means the air comes through leaks, and leaks are not sized for anything.
Run the worst case and watch the flue
Close the interior doors you normally leave open, since a shut bedroom door can create its own pressure zone. Turn on the range hood at its highest speed, run the bath fan, and run the dryer if it is vented and you can reach the lint trap. Then light a smoke pencil or an incense stick and hold it at the draft hood of an atmospheric water heater or furnace, at the point where exhaust leaves the appliance. With the exhausts running, smoke should drift up and into the flue. If it spills out into the room instead, the appliance is backdrafting, and the exhaust is winning the argument.
A cheap digital manometer turns that wisp into a number. Measure the pressure difference between the mechanical room and the outdoors while the fans run. A reading that goes meaningfully negative when the exhausts are on is the thing to chase, and it is worth recording with the fans off and on so you have a baseline to compare against later.
If the test shows spillage, stop the test, shut off the exhausts, and call a licensed heating contractor to look at the appliance and the venting before the next run. A carbon monoxide alarm installed on the same level as the appliance is a reasonable backstop, but it is not a fix, and it does not replace the test.
Fix the path, not just the fan
The options run roughly from cheapest to most involved. You can lower the range hood speed or shorten bath fan runtimes. You can confirm the dryer vent is clear and not crushed, since a restricted dryer vent adds its own load. You can open a sized make-up path, such as a ducted intake or a transfer opening, if the test shows the house starving for air. Or you can have a ventilation contractor balance the whole system so the supply and exhaust match. Swapping in a bigger bath fan without touching anything else usually makes the problem worse, because you have raised the demand without adding a supply.
Sizing a make-up opening is a calculation tied to your house, your appliances, and your exhaust schedule, so insist that the person doing it writes the numbers down. The goal is simple. Know which way the air is moving in your house before a cold week, and before a gas appliance has to tell you the answer.